Brief Refrigeration and Loft Considerations

We went below zero last night and are staying there until Tuesday. The forecast for the rest of the week is completely upwards with nights above zero starting on the 23rd. Let’s see if that lasts!

The Eternabond hasn’t arrived yet and it’s too cold to apply it anyway, so I’m pretty much on hold in the loft. It was super damp in there this morning with the windows covered in condensation, but five minutes with the dehumidifier solved that. I’ll have to keep leaving it on 24/7.

It snowed lightly today, so going out for plywood was out of the question (remember, I have a hatchback so I have to carry big things on the roof!). I continued work on the insulation. The styrofoam panels I have are too thick, so I have to halve them, a surprisingly tough job.

Instead of sleeping, I’ve been lying awake at night thinking about the next steps in this project. One thing that bugs me is that there aren’t many places into which I could secure the new flooring:

Everything in blue is thin paneling over insulation over thin paneling over insulation over fiberglass. That’s it! The red lines are where I have something structural into which to screw. I’ll come back to the green marks.

So, obviously, the flooring can’t be in too many pieces if I want any sort of structural integrity at all. The best thing would be to bring in one piece, but I really don’t think that would be manageable. I also won’t have anything to cut it with once I get here if I try to bring it home in one piece and concede that I need two. It’s going to have to come home in two pieces.

The green marks indicate where there is padding around the interior of the C. This padding is about a half inch taller than the floor, so I need to remove to be able to install the floor flat. I will replace the padding with some 1 1/2″ or so thick wood I found in the basement (a real Ali Baba’s cave, it seems). This will give me some additional place for screwing in the flooring so that both sections can get a bit of extra support along the interior side of the C. I’ll make sure to take pictures when I get to this point!

That leaves the sides. Intellectually I know that if the manufacturer didn’t feel the flooring needed any additional support on the sides, it mustn’t have needed it, but I’m still getting the willies since all the weight in the loft is right smack in the middle. I might get thicker plywood after all! 😀

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  • You could attach some 1×4 lumber under the outer edges of the sides (short edges) of the pieces that will be the floor before putting them in place. The length of those end pieces will be the distance between the 2 red area supports, minus some clearance. If you put the floor in two pieces then you could use a third 1X4 piece in the center, under the separation with 2″ under one side and 2″ under the other side. Secure the center 1×4 to one of the pieces of the floor before putting them in place.
    Secure those to each other,at the center, after the pieces are fitted into the loft. Secure it all with screws to the red areas. You have nothing to secure to on the sides but the 1×4 will support it just fine.

    Good luck, keep the demudifier on or keep the windows open BRRRR!.

    Happy Trails,

  • I thought of doing something like that, with the 1x4s, but I’d still end up with the same problem, no structural support on that side. There’s no difference between the plywood resting on the styrofoam or on the 1x4s if the 1X4s themselves aren’t screwed into something structural. I’m glad to see that I am being clear with what’s going on since we’re on the same track!

    There’s no way I’m opening a window in this weather! 😀

  • The 1X4 underneath would be screwed to the loft base BEFORE the base is installed. Even though the edges would not be screwed to anything in the RV they would stiffen the base to prevent sagging. I did a brief sketch of the proposal but have no easy way to get it to you. Do you have and e-mail you can give me so I can send it. I can also send it to you on the SPK site if you want.

  • Email is rae AT uskeba DOT ca

    I think we are envisioning the same thing. I’m just trying to figure out if the 1x4s would prevent sagging any more than would the styrofoam?

  • Plywood is 3/8″, 1/2″?? Bigger is better here.
    The supports would be ~7/8″ and would really stiffen the front to back flex.


  • Does the sketch help?

  • I had thought to go with 1/2″ but might splurge on 3/4″.

    It’s not like the plywood is resting over thin air since it will be flush with the styrofoam, but I dunno. I’m still reeling with shock at what I’ve been lying on for two years. That paneling was just a quarter inch thick! Sure, it was over two layers of insulation and another layer of paneling, but it doesn’t seem like much.

    I’ve emailed you back about the sketch, thanks!

  • Could you consider construction adhesive here? It would make everything one structural mass but the downside would be that it would be very hard to remove later. I agree that it should be made in as few pieces as possible. Preferably one piece.

  • Oh, I have been VERY generous with the adhesives! 😀 The point of all this is to never have to take this apart again!

  • Not planing to have any leaks EVER again, HHHMMMMMMM! I would use adhesive on the supports for the bed as in the sketch (except on the last connection of the two pieces) but only a couple of screws to hold the assembled bed down. Gravity works well here.

    1/2″ or 5/8″ plywood would probably be more than enough. You can drive a car over 3/4″ plywood with no problem. You are way too svelte to cause a problem on thinner stuff. Besidesm you have to carry it at some time.

    Hapy Trails,

  • Mike, yea of little faith! I’m doing the entire overcab with Eternabond. If I get a leak, I plan to sue! 😀

    Svelte?! *LOL* That’s the funniest thing I’ve heard all year. *wipes away mirthful tears* The thickness will depend on the difference in price between the various options.

  • And someone has to carry it. If you use two pieces at least you can carry it in shifts.
    Good Luck, stay warm, sleep warm and dry.

    PS, It is 52F. here and raining with low 40’s tonight. And this is FLORIDA!!!!!

    Happy Trails,

  • I can carry a 3/4″ sheet of plywood. Not easily, but I can do it. You learn tricks when you live a solo lifestyle.

    Note to self: do not move to Florida. 😀

  • Yeah, but you gotta be here in the summer!!!! And summer is April till October, at least that is the swimming season in my backyard!
    Not coming to Florida,Hmmmmmm! Don’t want to be flatlander?


  • First week of April ’08, I was in Savannah. I decided to make a detour across Florida state lines, just to say I’d been to Florida. Savannah was extremely hot and muggy. The thirty miles of Florida I saw were soaking wet and cold. Let’s just say the state didn’t make much of an impression. 😀

  • Sorry ’bout that. Next time you are coming, call me, I will see about better weather. The call here is “if you don’t like the weather, wait a few minutes, it will change”.

    Take a look at this official weater report and you will see what I mean:

    Florida is VERRRRYYY long and a long full days drive from the Ga. border to the BEGINNING of the keys. The weather in the winter can vary by 50F. driving that distance. Driving in and out of rainstorms is common during the rainy season.

    Try it, you’le like it!.


  • Don’t worry, Mike. Properly touring Florida is on my bucket list. 🙂 I’m just in no rush to go back to the east coast having done the bulk of it.

  • I hear ya’. I have lived here for the best part of 40 years and have only seen a small part of it. When we start to travel, the rest of Florida is on my “to-do” list first. Then out West.
    I have had my share of 95 and the turnpike and don’t have a burning desire to do it any more.

    Happy Trails,

    PS The Chamber of Commerce required that last note re. changing the weather, sorry!

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